Adventure #5: New Orleans, Louisiana
Mary Shertenlieb
New Orleans has held a special spot in my heart for years. We have a long history, me and New Orleans. Growing up in Atlanta, New Orleans was just a hop over Alabama and a skip over Mississippi. Rich and I took many adventures to the Crescent City. When we moved to Dallas, Rich's work brought him to New Orleans about once a month, so we were there quite a bit. He was even on a float in the Mardi Gras parade many moons ago. I fell in love with the food, the people, the history, the food, the architecture, the food - oh wait - did I just mention food three times? Of course I did, silly.
This city is quite the culinary wonderland!
I honestly think New Orleans is the best dining destination in the country. It is is just out of this world. The time and care that the folks put into each dish down there is a matter of sharing their heart and soul - it's not just food, it's love!
YES. This is a collard and bacon melt! So insane.
Now my heart belongs to New Orleans for a completely different reason - my sweet sister, her awesome husband and my precious six month old nephew, Will, call New Orleans home. Mandy has been in New Orleans for about a decade now, so Hank and Max have been, probably a dozen times. So, I've had plenty of time to check out this city through the eyes of little guys. This past year they have been three times (I've been five!) - we were even fortunate to be there on the one year anniversary of my transplant!
And we were able to celebrate together at Commander's Palace, one heck of a historical spot in the Garden District. Yes, I have steroid face. I had crazy liver medical stuff going down here. It's what happens sometimes!
On the surface, you wouldn't really think of New Orleans as a kid's spot, but it truly is - this city loves kids. The restaurants are truly kid friendly - the culture is just super welcoming towards families. Of course, I probably wouldn't stroll down Bourbon Street with a teenage boy, but really - most of the rest of the city is perfectly suited for a family trip.
A pretty pink lady in the Garden District...
A pretty lady down by the river. There are beads everywhere in this city.
EVERYWHERE.
And almost all of the streets look like this!
Just when you think you've seen everything...you find wrought iron in the form of corn stalks. Yes! After our Commander's Palace lunch we took a stroll and found this magical place. This spot is known as the Cornstalk Fence Mansion and is for sale...in case you're interested...
The boys discovered this great little Star Wars replica of the restaurant inside of the restaurant (yes, it is a little confusing) at The Butcher, this out of this world sandwich shop. It's one of those spots where the meat is all grass fed, the sauces have been simmering for days and Admiral Ackbar's head greets you at the bar.
To call it a sandwich shop is entirely underselling it. Have you ever had a Le Pig Mac? Those are breakfast sausage patties, my friends. You need to share this sandwich. With like ten people. It is HUGE.
So you're wondering, what do you do in a city where the main thoroughfare is named after hard liquor? Well, there is a TON to do!
Children's Museum.......The boys love the Children's Museum in New Orleans. It is really cute and pretty big, but not too big - just enough space for everyone so you can relax and not worry about your kiddo getting mixed up in a big cluster of other kids. I think the boys' favorite spot in there is the pretend grocery store. It's the real deal. Complete with real cash registers and a conveyor belt for the food to travel down. My boys loved it! I loved the little replicas of the New Orleans style homes. There are about three distinct home designs that are specific to New Orleans. Just about every house in the city is built in one of three ways and the museum showcases these styles - which are VERY different from Boston - so this was fun to explore not just for me, but for the boys.
Trees..........New Orleans has some spectacular trees that are PERFECT for climbing! My boys love to climb trees - Hank in particular has a hard time walking past a tree with low branches and not stopping to attempt to climb it. It is hard to resist the siren song of a good tree! There are so many parks throughout New Orleans with some great trees - in fact, City Park and Audubon Park are two beautiful spots for kids to climb. Audubon Park has a zoo next to it...so while you're outside of the zoo climbing trees, you can see a little giraffe head peak out every now and then. This spot is dear to my heart, too. When Hank was two, he named the giraffe Goopy. We still call that giraffe Goopy. A little giraffe friend on the other side of the country!
Story Land.........Some of y'all might be familiar with the Story Land parks. City Park in New Orleans adopted some Story Land pieces from a Story Land that was closing down somewhere out there...so the boys love this part of City Park. Lots of climbing and tons of fun in the shade! Which is important in August in New Orleans...
Watching boats on the Mississippi......on paper, this might not sound so thrilling. But trust me, when you see a barge about a mile long, it's hard not to be impressed. Plus, there is something cool knowing the history of the river and knowing that thousands of boats have traveled this way and will continue to do so...you can ride one of the old school riverboats, too! Oh, and a full on train goes RIGHT through the city. Loud. But cool!
Aquarium......sharks, birds and all of the usual aquarium friends! But this aquarium has animals pretty centric to the New Orleans and bayou area...the bird room is pretty incredible, but make sure you don't leave with bird friends! I noticed one little guy hiding in my bag. He was adorable. But I'm pretty sure he would have been a pain to travel with back to Boston and my sister has enough pets already!
And of course...EATING!!!!
PLACES TO STAY!!
We have literally stayed at just about every hotel here. I sorta kid, but not really. Honestly we have been to New Orleans at least two dozen times...but my three favorite are these guys, for these reasons:
Hotel Monteleone: this fancy spot is the heart of the French Quarter and there is a carousel bar (!) in the lobby. Even if you don't drink, watching people drink and try to "step away" from the bar is high comedy. Lots of famous writers and such have had a drink here. Even if you don't stay here, check out the bar! It's just blocks from Jackson Square, where you'll find a random band on a random Tuesday.
The W French Quarter: this modern spot is one of my absolute favorites, because they have the perfect, quintessential New Orleans courtyard. Pretty little bubbling fountains, trees with low branches with lights strung throughout, a teeny but perfect sized swimming pool. Plus, it's on Chartres Street, which is French Quarter, but not "Bourbon Street" French Quarter, meaning that you can get a feel of the Quarter without having a drunk frat boy screaming outside of your window at 2am.
My mom being an utter goofball and pretending to dunk Max into the fountain at the W...
The Roosevelt: this is a classic spot just off the French Quarter. While it is definitely older, it's been renovated and the pool is fabulous - it's on the 4th floor so it's not a complete rooftop pool, but it truly has the feel of being above the city and you can see a ton of the New Orleans skyline. There is a great bar out there and you can order food to the pool...plus my guys loved the giant Connect 4 game!
BOOKS!!
So much has been written about New Orleans - but I have two favorite children's books that Hank and Max truly dig. One about food, one about music. Two themes at the heart of New Orleans.
Today is Monday in Louisiana - Just check out the cover art! I love the little cut out pieces of the sausage, red beans, rice. So, the story goes...each day of the week goes through a different, classic New Orleans dish. Monday is red beans. Tuesday is po' boys. And so on! At the end is a glossary explaining this dishes that are unique to New Orleans. This is the perfect book to read to kids before traveling to New Orleans. It will expand the culinary vocab of your little one, and when you head to a restaurant in the Crescent City, your little guy or gal will know what a beignet is (powdered sugar goodness, is what it is!).
Trombone Shorty - This book delves into the music scene in New Orleans, told through the story of a young boy, Troy "Trombone Shorty" Andrews. Trombone Shorty tells his story of growing up around music in the Treme neighborhood and how he became a well-known trombone player. The illustrations really capture the feel of the Treme neighborhood and the music scene. Plus, there is the cutest black and white photo of Trombone Shorty playing away at the end of the book. Adorable.
So now you know this slice of one of the most unique cities in the world. Since you're in the south - don't forget to mind your manners, y'all. This was at bar. Pretty simple, but some folks need a reminder! Not you, those other folks. Bless their hearts.
xoxo,
Mary